Dry, untreated firewood only. Here is what belongs in a fireplace, what never does, and why the fuel you choose shows up later in the chimney.
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For a wood-burning fireplace, burn dry, untreated firewood and follow the instructions that came with the appliance. That is the whole rule, and most fireplace problems that start with fuel start with one of two things: wood that is wetter than it looks, or something in the firebox that was never firewood to begin with.
Wet wood produces more smoke and contributes to creosote buildup. It is one factor among several though, not the whole story. Airflow, how the fireplace is operated and the condition of the chimney all matter too, which is why the Chimney Safety Institute of America treats buildup as a maintenance question rather than a fuel question alone.
Quick answer
The reliable way to know is a moisture meter. Split a piece, press the pins into the fresh inside face, and read it. The EPA’s wood-burning guidance is to burn wood at or below 20 percent moisture, seasoned and stacked so air can move through it. If the reading comes back higher, put the piece back and give the stack more time.
Appearance can be suggestive, but it does not measure anything. Checked ends, gray color and a lighter feel are all consistent with drier wood. They are also consistent with a piece that is dry on the outside and wet in the middle, which is exactly the piece that smokes.
One Long Island detail worth knowing: a stack kept in a damp garage or against the north side of a house can sit for a full season and barely move. Air and sun do the work, not time on its own.

Quick answer
Smoke that cools on the way up leaves deposits on the flue walls. Those deposits are creosote, they are combustible, and more than one form of them can be present in the same chimney, from a light soot to a hard glaze.
Burning dry wood tends to slow that process down. What it does not do is guarantee the annual check finds nothing, and it is not a reason to skip one. If you want the frequency question answered properly, we covered it in how often a chimney should be cleaned.

| What you notice | What to do |
|---|---|
| Meter reads 20 percent or below on a fresh split face | Good to burn. Keep the rest of the stack covered on top and open at the sides. |
| Meter reads above 20 percent | Put it back. Re-split, restack and test again later. Do not burn it to dry it. |
| No meter, and the piece is heavy with tight, smooth ends | Treat it as not ready. Weight and uncracked ends both point to water still in the wood. |
| It came from a job site, a skid or a demolition pile | Leave it out. Unknown treatment is reason enough on its own. |
| It is a cut tree, branches or yard trimmings | Not this season. Green material is wet material. |
| It washed up on the beach | No. Salt does not belong in a flue. |
Quick answer
Fuel is the part you control daily, so it is worth getting right. It is also the part that gets over-credited. These are chimney conditions, and no fuel choice addresses any of them:
If smoke is coming into the room rather than going up, that is a different problem with its own answer: stop using the fireplace and have it assessed, which the EPA says plainly as well.

Quick answer
None of the above applies to a gas fireplace or gas logs. You do not add fuel to those, and nothing should ever be burned in them that the manufacturer did not specify. Decorative media, logs and placement are all part of the appliance’s listing, so the instructions govern. We compared the two kinds of upkeep in gas and wood fireplace care.
Electric fireplaces have no combustion at all, so there is no fuel question and no chimney involved.
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